Category Archives: Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures

Posts about my hobby of painting The Lord of the Rings miniatures from Games Workshop. These articles were originally from my previous blog at lordoftheringsfigures.blogspot.ca

My miniature painting articles range from updates concerning what I’m painting to full guides on how to paint.

Making a test base using Citadel Texture Paint.

Neled Herain Dan Caer Menig!

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


This post, although a bit late, marks yet another momentous occasion!  This blog has, as of now, received over ten thousand views!  For those of you who don’t know, that’s how many uruk-hai attacked the Hornburg in The Two Towers.  The title of this post means “Three hundred against ten thousand” and I thought it fitting for a milestone such as this.  Indeed, I remember when the blog had only received neled herain views, and now that it’s reached a number as great as caer menig, I have decided to publish a new guide on Snapguide.  This guide should prove useful if you are unsure about how to base your miniatures.

Check out How to Make a “Test Base” by Hamish Turnbull on Snapguide.
Continue reading Neled Herain Dan Caer Menig!

A Moria Goblin miniature's base flocked with static snow.

How to Detail a Miniature’s Base (Snapguide)

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


I just made a new guide on Snapguide.  This one concerns detailing a miniature’s base and has taken me a while to make.  Now that it’s published I hope that it will be of some help to those who have had difficulty with basing their miniatures.

Check out How to Detail a Miniature’s Base by Hamish Turnbull on Snapguide.

A Moria Goblin Spearman miniature soaked in blood.

The Blood of the Free Folk…

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


A Moria Goblin Spearman miniature soaked in blood.I should have written this post several weeks ago, but I’ve been really busy preparing for The Desolation of Smaug.  I painted this Moria orc in much the same way as I normally do, but this time I decided that I’d be using the goblin to test out Blood for the Blood God, one of the new citadel paints that were released just recently.  It is clear that this orc has slain many a foe and that it has recently stopped to feast on one of its victims.  There is blood on its hands, and it drips from its open  maw.  Some has also splattered onto the creature’s face.
Continue reading The Blood of the Free Folk…

A Citadel base painted using Agrellan Earth and Agrax Earthshade.

New Citadel Paints

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


The world is changed…
I feel it in the water…
I feel it in the earth…
I smell it in the air…

A Citadel base painted using Agrellan Earth.Citadel recently added six new paints to their already vast collection: Blood for the Blood God, Typhus Corrosion, Ryza Rust, Nihilakh Oxide, Nurgle’s Rot and Agrellan Earth.  The day they were released to the public I bought all six of them and began experimenting with Agrellan Earth and Blood for the Blood God. Continue reading New Citadel Paints

A Games Workshop Moria goblin miniature.

Agrax Earthshade: Technique in a Bottle

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


Citadel's Agrax Earthshade shade paint.

For two years now I have not painted a single miniature without employing Agrax Earthshade to some end. It is widely accepted as an essential paint for any collection, and is often referred to as “Liquid Talent” or sometimes “Skill in a Bottle” because of its effects on a miniature.  Being a shade, Agrax Earthshade flows into the recesses of the model and, when applied correctly, will bring a model together while bringing its best features to attention.

I have found that it is best applied to the entire miniature in several thin coats.  Make sure that it does collect in the recesses or it won’t have quite as realistic an effect.
Continue reading Agrax Earthshade: Technique in a Bottle

A statue from Citadel's Ruins of Osgiliath set, painted brown.

Brown Masonry

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


A statue from Citadel's Ruins of Osgiliath set, painted brown.
This statue from the Ruins of Osgiliath set has not been painted specifically to look like a part of that city of Gondor. Instead, I decided to paint it in a more generic manner, meaning it would look great anywhere, be it Gondor or Mordor (you probably wouldn’t actually see too many of these in the land of shadow but the colours don’t look out of place). I did this with a generally brown palette of paints, but I used the same style of painting stone as is seen here.
Continue reading Brown Masonry

A Citadel base painted to look like Mordor

Painting Terrain: The Land of Mordor

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


A Citadel base painted to look like the land of Mordor.In my last post, I explained how I detailed a grass-covered base. Keep in mind through this post that the techniques used here are just as useful on a large terrain board as they are on a tiny 25mm base. The basing style in the last post would probably not work so well on a large board, but rest assured that this one is (if anything) even better when applied to a huge terrain board.

This base is painted to look like the ash-wastes of Mordor, and so would be perfect for any evil army. Since I first used this technique on a large board, I bought large quantities of the colours needed from a hardware store. Because of this, a base painted with Citadel paints will be slightly different, but very few people will be able to tell any difference. Unlike most of my colour schemes, I didn’t actually come up with this one myself. This is something I learned from Chad Mierzwa in an article of White Dwarf.
Continue reading Painting Terrain: The Land of Mordor

A selection of goblin miniatures along with dwarven stonework

Dwarven Stonework

This post was migrated from my earlier blog:
Painting The Lord of the Rings Miniatures.


How I painted dwarven stonework for my moria army.I just finished painting the well in Balin’s tomb and I felt the urge to take a picture of it for the blog. Beside the terrain feature can be seen Grôblog, a few Moria Goblin spearmen and a trapdoor I painted earlier. I know it’s not much, but I really am working on a few new miniatures and they’ll be done soon. In the meantime, I’ll explain how I painted the stonework of the well, Grôblog’s pillar and the trapdoor.

All three pieces of grey stone are easy to paint and use the same simple formula. Interestingly, the last step is the most important and really makes it look like a rock. The technique can be used on anything, so long as it’s made of rock, so it’s good to know it. It starts with a basecoat of Stormvermin Fur, which makes a good starting point for any colour of stone I’ve tried.

A well from the Mines of Moria set from Games Workshop.After the basecoat had dried (which doesn’t take long), I washed the stone several times with Agrax Earthshade. During this step, I made sure to focus the pigment heavily in the recesses of the rock, such as the cracks and other deep places. I repeated this step until it was suitably tenebrous, particularly on the inside of the well. That step took by far the longest, and once that had dried, I heavily drybrushed the outside of the well with Mechanicus Standard Grey. Only a small amount was drybrushed on the inside, but it made all the difference. For this step I used mainly a very large brush, but for the hard-to-reach places, I used a regular old drybrush. I avoided the really deep areas so as not to flatten the look of the stone.

The brushes I used to drybrush dwarven stonework

Next, I drybrushed Dawnstone using the larger brush, but less heavily than the previous colo
ur. I got no paint on the inside of the well and very little in the deep spots. I then applied an even lighter drybrush of Administratum Grey, then used the smaller brush to apply a very faint final drybrush of Praxetti white to only the most exposed areas. As I said earlier, this last step is very important and makes the model look just like stone.

This simple technique can be used with different colours, but when painting stone the final highlight should almost always be white. I have found that this formula makes stone an easy and enjoyable thing to paint.

Thank you for reading my latest post. Good day.